Effect of squalane-based emulsion on polyphenols skin penetration: ex vivo skin study

Polyphenols have gained attractiveness as ingredients in cosmetic formulations as result of their ability to delay the aging process. However, different factors limit their use, including low solubility and poor skin permeability. In this sense, this study describes the potential of squalane to increase the polyphenols ex vivo skin penetration, incorporated into a water-in-oil emulsion. Polyphenols skin permeation followed the Fick's first law and, p-coumaric acid, vitexin, schaftoside and ferulic acid had the higher permeability coefficients (Kp = 6.0–8.0 × 10^-3 cm^-2 h^-1). Addition of squalane to phenolic compounds decreased the permeability coefficients (Kp = 4.1–5.9 × 10^-3 cm^-2 h^-1), indicating that squalane increased the retention of polyphenols in the skin. Gentisic acid, ferulic acid, and p-coumaric acid were the only compounds permeating from water-in-oil emulsion, in the first 8 h of study and, according Krosmeyer-Peppas model, its n value was > 1 indicating a high transport resistance from the formulation and throughout the skin. Results suggest squalane as an efficient vehicle to increase the dermal availability increasing phenolic compounds physiological functions, by enhancing the skin retention time where they should exert antiaging effect.