Sugarcane straw hemicellulose extraction by autohydrolysis for cosmetic applications

Sugarcane is a popular crop whose cultivation generates a wide range of by-products. The aim was to optimize the hydrothermal extraction of hemicellulose from sugarcane straw using response-surface methods with a two-factor composite design and to assess its functional qualities. Three process parameters were subject to optimization: solid/liquid ratio (1:6–1:18), temperature (143–186 °C), and extraction time (20–60 min). A xylooligosaccharide (XOS)-enriched extract was characterized regarding its chemical composition, molecular weight, and antioxidant and antimicrobial potential. The optimized extraction yield was 24.46 g/100 g of straw with a polymerization degree of 17.40. Both hemicellulose and XOS demonstrated notable antioxidant properties, with antioxidant effects of 73% and 85%, respectively. Regarding skin enzyme activity, hemicellulose inhibited elastase by more than 50%, while XOS showed no significant effect. However, both extracts exhibited collagenase (MMP1) inhibition comparable to the positive control. In terms of production feasibility, the estimated costs were 130.5 EUR/kg for hemicellulose and 272.5 EUR/kg for XOS. Overall, the optimized XOS-enriched sugarcane straw extract demonstrated promising anti-aging, antioxidant, and preservative properties, highlighting its potential for cosmetic applications.