TY - JOUR
T1 - Valorization of strawberry tree verries and beeswax from Montesinho Natural Park for cosmetic industry - a case study formulation
AU - Lamas, Mariana
AU - Silva, Ana Margarida
AU - Moreira, Manuela M.
AU - Maia, Maria Luz
AU - Domingues, Valentina F.
AU - Delerue-Matos, Cristina
AU - Amaral, Maria Helena
AU - Fernandes, Virgínia Cruz
AU - Rodrigues, Francisca
N1 - Publisher Copyright:
© 2024 by the authors.
PY - 2024/10
Y1 - 2024/10
N2 - Consumers are increasingly concerned about cosmetic ingredients’ origin, looking more than ever to sustainable and greener formulations. The Natural Park of Montesinho, located in Portugal, is characterized by an enormous fauna and flora diversity. Among them, beeswax and strawberry trees (Arbutus unedo) have attracted the cosmetic researchers’ interest due to their bioactive compounds’ richness, particularly fatty acids and phenolic compounds. The main goal of this study was to develop an innovative cosmetic product with antioxidant properties composed by both matrices. Briefly, samples were obtained in the Natural Park of Montesinho in October 2022. Beeswax was analysed for lipid profile and contaminants, while extracts were obtained from fruits by ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) using water as a solvent. The effect of extraction time (15–90 min) was studied on the total phenolic content (TPC), in vitro antioxidant/antiradical activity, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging capacity. The beeswax lipid profile presented a high incidence of palmitic, oleic, and linoleic acids. The extract obtained at 60 min presented the highest TPC (30.27 mg GAE/g dw) and antioxidant/antiradical activities (ABTS = 30.36 mg AAE/g dw; DPPH = 43.83 mg TE/g dw; FRAP = 415.61 µmol FSE/g dw). An IC50 of 19.78 µg/mL was achieved for the hypochlorous acid, while for superoxide radical and peroxyl radical the IC50 were, respectively, 90.51 µg/mL and 0.19 µmol TE/mg dw. The phytochemical profile revealed a high content of gallic acid, and catechin and its derivatives. The hydrophilic cream developed revealed ideal technological parameters, particularly its stability.
AB - Consumers are increasingly concerned about cosmetic ingredients’ origin, looking more than ever to sustainable and greener formulations. The Natural Park of Montesinho, located in Portugal, is characterized by an enormous fauna and flora diversity. Among them, beeswax and strawberry trees (Arbutus unedo) have attracted the cosmetic researchers’ interest due to their bioactive compounds’ richness, particularly fatty acids and phenolic compounds. The main goal of this study was to develop an innovative cosmetic product with antioxidant properties composed by both matrices. Briefly, samples were obtained in the Natural Park of Montesinho in October 2022. Beeswax was analysed for lipid profile and contaminants, while extracts were obtained from fruits by ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) using water as a solvent. The effect of extraction time (15–90 min) was studied on the total phenolic content (TPC), in vitro antioxidant/antiradical activity, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging capacity. The beeswax lipid profile presented a high incidence of palmitic, oleic, and linoleic acids. The extract obtained at 60 min presented the highest TPC (30.27 mg GAE/g dw) and antioxidant/antiradical activities (ABTS = 30.36 mg AAE/g dw; DPPH = 43.83 mg TE/g dw; FRAP = 415.61 µmol FSE/g dw). An IC50 of 19.78 µg/mL was achieved for the hypochlorous acid, while for superoxide radical and peroxyl radical the IC50 were, respectively, 90.51 µg/mL and 0.19 µmol TE/mg dw. The phytochemical profile revealed a high content of gallic acid, and catechin and its derivatives. The hydrophilic cream developed revealed ideal technological parameters, particularly its stability.
KW - Natural compounds
KW - Sustainability
KW - Valorization
KW - Skin care
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=85207678189&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.3390/antiox13101152
DO - 10.3390/antiox13101152
M3 - Article
C2 - 39456406
AN - SCOPUS:85207678189
SN - 2076-3921
VL - 13
JO - Antioxidants
JF - Antioxidants
IS - 10
M1 - 1152
ER -