Análise robusta ao universo de moda de noiva sustentável em Portugal

: o vestido de noiva

Abstract

The sentimental and emotional dimension of the wedding dress, associated with social canons, takes on extraordinary proportions, seeming to go beyond reason, especially given the fact that, for the most part, the garment is designed for single use. The fashion industry, of which bridalwear is a part, has a negative impact on the environment through the uninterrupted exploitation of resources and the unbridled consumption of clothing. However, it seems that this issue is not yet at the forefront of national bridal fashion, and the sustainability associated with this industry is at a very early stage. This thesis aims to understand the role of sustainability in Portuguese bridalwear and how the various players are sensitive to this issue, particularly the bride, for whom the bridal outfit seems to be a fashion icon and a cultural talisman that is at the center of one of the most valued ceremonies in Western culture. Versatility, modular design, upcycling, renting and second-hand use are practices pointed out by various authors as promoting sustainability in the fashion sector, and it is important to understand their applicability and relevance in bridalwear. Understanding this dynamic requires analyzing the phenomenon from different perspectives: the preferences of Portuguese consumers, the supply of the national market and the relationship between the two and sustainability. The main trends in bridal fashion in Portugal include personalization and versatile or modular outfits, with a proliferation of custom-made ateliers, which counter the massification and depersonalization more characteristic of bridal fashion available in multi-brand and ready-to-wear stores. Studies confirm that consumers are now more sensitive to the topic of sustainability and are opting for more environmentally friendly brands, but does the behavior of Portuguese brides reveal this concern, and are Portuguese ateliers aligned with sustainable principles? To answer the questions raised, interviews were carried out with seven Portuguese bridalwear designers, preceded by desk research and ethnographic analysis of the sustainable fashion sector, with a particular focus on bridal fashion. The development of this study led to the conclusion that bridal attire is highly valued by Portuguese brides, who turn to custom-made ateliers to have a unique model. The interviews made it possible to understand a variety of behaviors and preferences of Portuguese brides, with one very important aspect standing out: on first contact with the atelier, the bride rarely reveals any desire to have a sustainable dress. This contradicts the publicity in the Portuguese media about the growth of sustainable weddings, at least when it comes to wedding dresses. There is a growing tendency to look for versatile dresses, the main purpose of which for many brides is to show off different looks during the wedding day, while for others the aim is to use pieces of the model in future situations. Overall, it was concluded that the behaviors adopted do not yet contribute significantly to the sustainability of bridal fashion in Portugal.

Date of Award	10 Jan 2025
Original language	Portuguese
Awarding Institution	Universidade Católica Portuguesa
Supervisor	Ana Madsen (Supervisor)