Exploring textile fibre characterisation: a review of vibrational spectroscopy and chemometrics

The identification/classification of textile fibres is essential in manufacturing, forensic science, cultural heritage preservation, and recycling. Conventional methods, including solubility tests, optical microscopy, and chromatographic techniques, are often destructive, labour-intensive, and limited in scope. Vibrational spectroscopy, particularly near-infrared (NIR), Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR), and Raman spectroscopy, has emerged as a rapid, non-destructive, and accurate alternative for fibre analysis. However, multi-composition textiles, dyes, finishing agents, and ageing effects frequently cause overlapping spectral features, hampering direct interpretation. This review examines the combined use of vibrational spectroscopy and chemometrics for textile fibre discrimination. It critically evaluates the performance of different spectroscopic techniques in classifying natural, synthetic, and blended fibres. The role of multivariate analysis methods, such as PCA, PLS, LDA, SIMCA, and machine learning algorithms, in improving spectral interpretation and classification accuracy is highlighted. Key factors affecting model robustness, including spectral pre-processing, sample heterogeneity, moisture, and colour, are also discussed. The integration of spectroscopy with chemometrics provides a robust, scalable, and sustainable solution for fibre identification, supporting quality control, fraud detection, and circular economy initiatives. This approach demonstrates significant potential for both research and industrial applications.